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Glenglassaugh
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Glenglassaugh
distillery was founded by James Moir in 1875
at the east end of Sandend Bay, just to the west of Portsoy. It
was passed through the family until 1892 when it was sold to a
long-standing customer Robertson & Baxter.
Robertson & Baxter immediately sold the company onwards to
Highland Distillers Company, but with a general downturn in the
industry they closed it in 1907.
A new
distillery building was erected adjacent to the old one in
1959 and production began again in 1960. |
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Production continued until 1986
when the distillery was mothballed in order for the company to
concentrate on expanding their blended whisky operations.
Glenglassaugh lay dormant until 2008, 29th February to be
exact, when the newly formed Glenglassaugh Distillery Company
bought it and began reburbishment.
It
was officially reopened on 25th November 2008 and new spirit
began flowing on 4th December, to be filled into the first casks
on 16th December. |
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New bottlings |
Post 2008 |
General whisky characteristics: Lots of fruit |
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Glenglassaugh,
(OB), Single Mash, Pot Still New Spirit,
50% ABV
Bottle No. 2422
from 8160, May 2009
"The spirit that
dare not speak its name"
Typical cost of
this bottle; |
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Glass:
Spiegelau
Colour:
Totally clear like water
Nose:
Raw
spirit with a little perfumed flora and raspberry. This is
almost the exact nose of a privately distilled grappa that I
know of in a Northern Italian vineyard. I can really only
describe it as slightly aromatic raw spirit.
Palate:
Really very
smooth with the 'fire' building only gently across the palate.
This has a very similar flavour to a few German schnapps,
generally called obstler and having apples and pears as the main
ingredients. That fruit is certainly evident here along with
just a hint of raspberry.
Finish: Very
long
Overall Impression:
A very good experience, but as far as New Spirits go, I think I
prefer the slightly smoky Kilchoman or very aromatic Bladnoch.
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Glenglassaugh,
(OB), Singular Pot Still New Spirit,
matured for
6 months, 50% ABV
Bottle No. 1642
from 8000, 2009
"The spirit that
blushes to speak its name"
Typical cost of
this bottle; |
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Glass:
Spiegelau
Colour:
Copper-red / rosι wine
Nose:
A
more fruity raw spirit with definite raspberry, faint redcurrant
and still a mix of apple and pear. As the minutes pass, the
spirit comes more to the fore.
Palate:
Smooth and even creamy before that gentle fire glides across the
palate, but this isn't fierce and soon abates. Apple, raspberry
and faint redcurrant are all evident, with the raspberry
remaining throughout the long finish.
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Finish: very
long raspberries.
Overall Impression:
The general characteristics between the new spirit and this 6
month variant are very similar, but the effects of just that 6
months in a cask make this is a very different spirit. It is
much more mature or rounded, with the raw spirit already giving
way to more fruit and creaminess. If I were asked, I would have
placed the difference at more than just 6 months, more like 18
months. I really like this, keep bottling it please!
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Older bottlings |
1986 & Earlier |
General whisky characteristics: Smooth, fruity and long |
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Glenglassaugh,
(OB), 'Family Silver',
distilled 1973, 40% ABV
Typical cost of
this bottle; |
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Glass:
Spiegelau
Colour: Rich
dark gold
Nose:
My
first thoughts are very mature, with leather, damp aromatic and
herbal hay with rich sweet fruit soaked in faint amaretto.
Palate:
Sweet and creamy fruit comprising mainly blackcurrant and
raspberry again soaked in that faint amaretto (marzipan).
Finish:
Gently and very pleasantly long.
Overall Impression:
Wow, a very, very good dram. I'll take a case please!
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Glenglassaugh,
(OB), 'Manager's
Legacy',
distilled 1986,
bottled 2010, 45.3%
ABV
Refill Butt, bottle
No.69 of 500
Dod Cameron,
Manager Glenglassaugh August 1974 - December 1986
Typical cost of
this bottle; |
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Glass:
Classic Malt
Colour:
Rich
amber
Nose:
Very woody in a very 'old pier' kind of way. This
means damp wood with a saltiness and lots of Atlantic Ocean.
Maritime.
Palate:
A
slightly watery mouth-feel offer green pepper, wood, in fact
that wood is almost smoked, pear, rose-water and a hint of light
bilge pump.
With 4 drops of
water: Lots more wood and Maritime Atlantic-ness (is that a
word?) on the nose. The palate is smoother and yes, more watery
now I've added some, then red peppercorn. It's also quite dry
with hints of figs and prunes and then some marzipan in the
background.
Finish:
Medium
to long and dry. Even drier with water.
Overall Impression:
A good
and most enjoyable whisky, albeit with a slightly watery
mouth-feel. |
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Glenglassaugh,
(OB), 'Manager's Legacy',
May 1967,
bottled 2010, 40.4%
ABV
Refill
Hogshead, one of 200 bottles
Walter Grant,
Manager Glenglassaugh
March
1962 - August 1967
Typical cost of
this bottle;
Reviewed as part of MMA 2011 |
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Glass:
Classic Malt
Colour:
Rich
sunny
amber
Nose:
Initially dusty candy floss being spun, then
light cherries with a hint of maracuja. The cherries expand with
time in the glass, but always remain quite light. Finally,
there's a suggestion of something which takes me a while to
place, but eventually I realise this is an old childhood delight
from local fairgrounds called brandy snap! Oh goodness, yes,
with that candy floss and now brandy snap I'm returned to
childhood afternoon visits to a local fairground with my parents.
Happy times! Can I have a ride on the waltzing horses please?
Palate:
Wonderfully creamy mouth-feel with that brandy snap, cherries,
polished oak, then lots of fruit and sherry. This is very well
balanced too.
Finish:
Very
long, light floral oak and yes, that brandy snap.
Overall Impression:
Stunningly good, an absolute gem, nay, a "Great"!
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Glenglassaugh,
'Chosen Few',
distilled
1976,
35y, 49.6%
ABV
Ronnie Routledge
Typical cost of
this bottle; |
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Glass:
Classic Malt
Colour:
Rich amber
Nose:
Amazingly aromatic and quite herbal. Also
lots of gently rounded fruitiness with mango & passion fruit,
but also just a little citrus. There's also a light nuttiness
and something which can only be described as rising, warming
bread dough. This is eventually replaced by a slightly sweeter
candy floss influence. Finally, there's a light floweriness
reminiscent of hyacinth.
Palate:
In
contrast to the gently rounded nose, the palate is quite sharp
although it retains those herbal traits, in fact it has the
herbalness (is that a word?) of a fine cognac alongside a light
pepperiness.
Finish:
Long
and oaty
Overall Impression:
This
is a truly excellent whisky and well deserving of almost being
labelled a "Great" in my scale of drams. The nose and palate
couldn't be much different and if I'm honest the palate is
slightly weaker than the magnificent nose. Only this prevented
it from achieving a 90+ score, but it really didn't miss out by
much. A truly excellent whisky.
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Glenglassaugh,
'Over
30 years',
distilled
1975,
36y, 43%
ABV
(CS)
Refill Sherry cask
then 1.5y Sauternes finish
Typical cost of
this bottle; |
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Glass:
Classic Malt
Colour:
Light
oak
Nose:
Very aromatic and floral, in fact massively
complex flora here. Also lightly herbal to the point where I
have to suggest "English country garden meets Alpine Meadow".
Eventually a light farminess develops also in a very aromatic
way.
Palate:
White
pepper and distinct white wine, then oats and (morning coffee)
biscuit. With more time in the glass a delightful fruitiness
develops, but this is always in the direction of grapes and that
Sauternes.
Finish:
Long,
very big, fruity and even a slight suggestion of smokiness.
Overall Impression:
Excellent, I love it even with that white wine, or maybe because
of the wine?
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Malts of Scotland,
Glenglassaugh,
25y,
1984-2009 54.7%
ABV
Cask #186, one of
213 bottles
Typical cost of
this bottle; |
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Glass:
Spiegelau
Colour: Well
polished old oak
Nose:
Luxurious, very well polished or cured old leather, turning
musty and slightly spirity after some minutes. Hints of
weathered wood and marzipan.
Palate:
Very smooth with oak, leather, dark fruits (raisins, plums,
currants) spreading gently across the palate before
concentrating on the front centre of the tongue, whilst making
the sides of the mouth water.
With 4 drops of
water in 2cl: The leather and oak are highlighted in the
nose and the palate is smoother and richer, with a concentration
of the nutty marzipan flavours.
A further 3
drops (in about 1cl) smoothen this even more, but the
flavours are now weakened.
Finish: Very
long and smooth, getting even longer with the drops of water,
but with a slightly more toasted effet.
Overall Impression:
A good
whisky, very rich and at its best with the first 4 drops of
water.
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Glass:
Classic Malt
Colour:
Pale
yellow, light straw
Nose:
Lots of barley and raw grains, in fact this nose
immediately places me in a distillery right by the malt mill and
alongside someone wearing sandalwood perfume.
Palate:
Very
smooth, deliciously so. Then comes light wood and aromatic
grasses followed by a suggestion of lavendar and bread dough.
With 4 drops of
water: The nose is even more intense as the palate gains
some toffee.
Finish:
Medium
to long, much shorter with the water.
Overall Impression:
Another quite different whisky with that big hit of grains
followed by floral bread dough.
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A. Caminneci,
Glenglassaugh,
May 1972-2010
59.1%
ABV
Refill Butt
#2891,
bottle 166 of 303
Typical cost of
this bottle; |
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Glass:
Munich
Whisky fair
Colour:
Light straw
Nose:
Very floral with hints of vanilla followed by a
bouquet of faint cherries, malt and then apple with cream and a
touch of cinnamon.
Palate:
An
initial burst of malt is followed by light green fruit (mainly
apple & pear) and green peppercorns.
Finish:
Very
long.
Overall Impression:
Surprisingly fresh in character for one so old, but very good.
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A summary or
Head-4-Head comparison of four rather different
Glenglassaughs |
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Glenglassaugh was closed in 1986 and eventually re-opened in
2008, so two of my four drams this evening were created before
the 1986 closure and obviously, the other two New Spirits are
products of the new regime. Having said this, I can definitely
taste similarities between the younger and older ones, mainly in
the background fruitiness.
The New Spirit was perhaps just a little too 'raw', but
it reminded me of some wonderful holidays in Sόd Tirol (Northern
Italy) where the vineyard in which we stayed distilled their own
grappa. The similarities are amazing.
The Spirit matured for 6 months was a revellation for me
as it tasted much more mature than its meagre age and was
already showing some great characteristics in the fruitiness.
The Family Silver was undoubtedly the dram of the evening;
mature, but yet smooth and very luxurious with some magnificent
fruit.
The MoS 25y was maybe just a little bit 'overcooked' as
the finish was getting rather toasted and the fruit was present,
but a little too dark and rich. It didn't quite have the finesse
or complexity of the Family Silver edition. |
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